No Fighting!

It has been my experience that birds do not like fighting. (Well, unless they started it.) Tensions in the home can lead to behavior problems in birds. Even raised voices will often elicit responses such as increased squawking, wing flapping and flying in an attempt to stop the fight.

This video shows an interesting example amongst chickens...

Wing Tips: Safe Behavior Correction

Occasionally birds like to pretend they're in charge. Sometimes, this means aggression in the form of a bite or even a full-on attack, flying at you with beak open.

Frequently, this has to do with time of year and hormone levels, along with defense of territory (which can include people they have claimed), and one can watch out for warning signs and body language if you are paying attention. But assuming all other factors which can cause aggression have been addressed (bird is not sick or laying eggs, food and water are good, cage is clean, etc.), There are some handy ways to deter attacks and bites.

One personal defense method is simply to find a harmless object the bird might find a bit intimidating. Whether this is a toy or some other small object that's easy to grab, I would simply produce the item and/or say an associated word, and the bird usually straightened up quick.

As an example, in my Quaker's cage were two round perches within easy reach. He was not afraid of them when they were just in his cage being perches. But if he began to show signs of aggression, I might say, "Stick!" and reach toward them, or, in a more hostile situation, would actually pull a perch out, at which time it suddenly became the most terrifying thing in the world. This was inadvertently discovered when trying to get him to step up onto a perch, which he did not like, and developed over time.

Of course, I would never actually touch the bird with the item. You can't physically reprimand a bird, and any physical reaction can cause them serious injury. But upon seeing the item he did know we meant business, and this was often followed by a very puffy, repentant parrot who wanted to be held a lot, and had stopped the biting altogether. We might then work on "nice touches" and positive reinforcement, simply having him touch me or an object gently with his beak rather than a bite. This behavior was praised.

Soft objects can also be good for distraction from bites. My cockatiel sometimes liked to chomp fingers rather than step up. I have used small plastic or stuffed toys by placing them against his beak so he chewed on them rather than me, and then proceeded to either move him to a different location or push my finger into his breast in order to force a step up. This has worked tremendously and prevented me a lot of pain. Towels can be quite handy as well.

It can also help to give your bird a safe "enemy." The Quaker also had a stuffed green bird toy we called his "ducky man." He became jealous of my false affection for the duck, and thus would often take his aggression out on the poor ducky man rather than us.

Naturally, you will need to find something safe that works for your bird. Some are more fearless than others, so adjustments must be made accordingly. Don't use their favorite toys, or objects you don't want them to develop a negative response against. And, again, remember to never use physical retaliation on a bird, even beak flicking, as they can easily be injured. As with all training methods, be sure that everyone in the household is familiar with the same approach.

Quakerotti

Quaker parrots are supposed to be some of the best talking parrots, when they wanna be. This video shows a great example. (Wished some other birds I knew got this inspired.)

Lyrics:
Sing a song? Ready?
I'm a little quaker green and stout.
Open the cage and let me out.
Better pick me up or else I'll squawk.
Rub (my) tummy and I'll talk.
Yay!

Bad Birds Caught on Tape!

As reported by media, this gull was a repeat offender who ended up all over the internet. He goes to the same shop every day and steals one pack of the same item - Doritos. Of course, he's picking exactly the kind of thing you do NOT want to feed a bird (as noted in the previous post).

Amusing, I 'spose, 'til it's undercutting your bottom line...

Wing Tips: Bird Diets for Optimal Health

Seeds, Pellets & Powders

Not long ago, many people were under the impression that a cup full of seeds and some clean water were all it took to keep a bird alive and healthy. But avian research has clearly shown that seed alone are not adequate, as seed diets lack much of the nutrition wild birds seek out from other sources, such as fruits and other plants. 

To make it easier for the average owner to feed their bird a healthy diet, many companies have developed fortified pellet diets. Pellets usually carry relatively "complete" nutrition, and help prevent many diseases and conditions which can later develop as a result of malnutrition from seeds alone.

If you have a bird who has been fed only seeds, your best option is to gradually introduce pellets until only the pellets are offered. Unfortunately, this is not always as easy as it sounds, and picky eaters may refuse pellets, even if that is all that's left in their dish. Seeds contain more fat, and the birds will often find them more satisfying than pellets.

If all else fails and your picky eater completely refuses pellets, your next best option is to put vitamin powder in their water, or mix the powder with "moist" foods, such as cut pieces of fruit. Prime supplement powder is a good example of a such a product which can, again, lead to a longer and healthier life for your bird.

Healthy vs. Junk Food

Just like people, birds need healthy snacks to stay healthy. Even if your bird just loves Cheetos and Fruit Loops, believe it or not, you're not doing him any favors by handing over the salty or sugary, processed treats.

The list of unhealthy bird snacks includes: 

• Salt or foods containing salt
• Products containing bleached flour
• Processed foods in general
• Sugar
• High fat items (limit nut intake)
• Chocolate
• Caffeine
• Alcohol
• Avocodos

A somewhat general rule of thumb is "if it's bad for you, it's bad for your bird." Read labels! If the ingredients read like a foreign language, it's virtually a guarantee that the product is not nutritious for anyone. Feeding your bird, and yourself, whole food items such as whole grain breads and unprocessed fruits and vegetables will keep them, and you, healthy.

Organic foods are highly recommended as well because of pesticides and other chemicals used on crops. While the outside of any type of produce can be cleaned fairly well, chemicals that go into the ground, and thus into the water table, eventually end up inside the plant as it takes up the water through its roots. Therefore, your safest bet is to buy organic when possible to limit potential toxins.

What About Water?

Many bird vets and sellers recommend bottled water for birds. This is because tap water can have traces of lead and other elements that, while they might not hurt a large human, could be deadly for a relatively small bird. It's as easy as stopping at the grocery store and picking up a gallon of spring water. It's cheap and it lasts, perhaps even a bit longer if your bird has learned to drink from a hanging water bottle.

Again, read the label to see if the water is bottled from a spring or a municipal source. A municipal source is pretty much the same as what you get out of your faucet every day, though probably slightly differently filtered.

Both water and food should be changed at least daily. Lack of food and water or dirty water are linked to behavior and health problems. For birds who love to dirty their water bowls, a hanging water bottle is recommended. This helps keep the water clean and may be changed every few days.

Proper diet is one of the easiest ways to keep your bird healthy. Check with your local avian veterinarian for more information.

Personally...

Our budgies both eventually died of gout, possibly in part because we learned too late in their lives about improved diet fortification. Both thankfully aged well into their teens, but may have lived even longer had we made additional modifications.

I highly recommend Roudybush brand pelleted food. Three of my birds were started on or switched to this brand, which doesn't include fake color additives. (Some picky eaters literally refuse to eat certain pellet colors. Rock stars!) I was actually able to use Grape Nuts cereal, which the cockatiel loved, to gradually switch him to Roudybush, which looked quite similar. Still amazed he fell for that.

I also found it quite easy to switch my Quaker from his water bowl to a hanging water bottle. This will certainly depend on the bird and how quickly they pick up on things, but I was very grateful to eliminate the "bird soup" mess he enjoyed making.

Wing Tips: So... You (Think You) Wanna Buy a Bird

Birds are amazing and complex creatures, and there's lots to know and consider before bringing one into your life and home. Here are several important considerations to get you started if you are thinking of getting a bird.

Financial Considerations

Many birds are extremely expensive animals to purchase. Large birds are especially costly for many reasons. The price of the bird is then multiplied by the price of the cage, toys, food, vet bills and any other accessories. Destructive birds can increase their costs by destroying furniture, clothing and valuables in the home. Toys must be replaced constantly for such birds.

Remember, even a "free" pet isn't free. You must still go on buying food and other items to keep any animal alive and healthy.

Experience

Have you ever had a bird in your household before? Do you know all the demands of owning a bird? If not, it is important to become educated. You might consider a smaller, more manageable bird, such as a budgie or cockatiel, to start with. It's ideal to learn some of the ins and outs of bird ownership before considering medium to large parrots, which require considerable responsibility.

Age & Lifespan

You must consider both your age and the average lifespan of many birds. Canaries and finches usually only live 3 to 5 years. On the other hand, some large birds, such as macaws, can have lifespans of 100+ years in captivity, and often must be "willed" to a new owner after their original owner passes away. This is extremely hard on birds, who often bond to one or two people.

It is always best to pick a bird whose average lifespan matches up with yours. Budgies tend to live around 9 to 10 years, and are good as both starter birds or pets for older adults. Many medium sized parrots may live to be around 30 years old, and would be suitable for more knowledgeable bird owners in their 20's or 30's. Do the math so that you do what is best for yourself and the bird.

The Time Factor

Many birds, especially parrots, need a lot of attention. Not only must they be fed, watered and have their cages cleaned, but they need play time and love from their owners as much as possible daily. If you travel frequently or find yourself too busy to work a pet into your day, a bird is not recommended.

On the other hand, if you already have a bird, it has likely bonded to you. In this case, if you find yourself frequently busy or away, please don’t feel that you must abandon your bird. Once a bird has bonded to its owner, it can be very hard on the bird to be parted from you. Therefore, maximizing quality time would be crucial. This is definitely not the ideal situation, but it may be good for the bird to stay with its original "flock leader." Many birds will not take to new owners easily.

 
The Noise Factor

How many decibels can you handle? You will find out quickly with a bird in the house. Some people can't handle the quiet chitter of a male canary, and others love the noisy squawks of a macaw. Visit bird shops to learn the noise levels of different types of birds. The whole family should be involved with this decision.

Speech & Talking

It is important to understand that not all parrots are capable of speaking, and not all birds with mimicking ability will choose to speak. If mimicking ability is a personal consideration in your purchase, be sure to research the speaking capability of different birds.

Also, understand that birds only repeat what they hear, and it is your responsibility to monitor the words to which they are exposed. Some parrots will pick up on a word the very first time they hear it, and they may begin to repeat things that you don't wish to hear. Once a bird learns a word or phrase, it is nearly impossible to get them to stop repeating.

Allergies

Many bird owners find out too late that they or someone in their family is allergic to bird dust. Everyone in the family should spend time with the specific bird type you are interested in purchasing, whether in pet shops or friend's homes, to see if the bird's dust affects them. Different types of birds have different amounts of dust, so some may affect an individual more than others.

For birds in the home, it is best to have a room air filter nearby (but not blowing on them), and rooms should be vacuumed often. Additionally, birds should be able to take frequent baths or showers to keep their dust down, and to keep the birds themselves from itching.

Placement in the Home

Where in your home will your bird live? Ideally, birds need to be in a comfortable, low traffic, draft-free location. Avoiding drafts includes cold or hot air blowing on the bird from an HVAC register, as well as air coming in from windows or entryways. They should not be placed too near the kitchen to avoid exposure from cooking fumes (non-stick coatings are deadly to birds), and they should never be exposed to smoke of any kind, be it from a fireplace or a cigarette. Bird dust may affect computers and electronics, so it is advisable to keep cages away from such equipment.

Don't forget, the location of a bird’s cage will become its territory. For many parrots, moving the cage location periodically may be recommended to keep the bird from becoming "king" or "queen" of the household. Once you have chosen a proper location, you might consider if there's room to relocate a parrot's cage within that area from time to time. At minimum, it can be helpful to periodically reconfigure their interior cage layout to minimize dominant behaviors.

 
Children

Children can be a risk to birds, and birds can, in turn, be dangerous around children. Children should be taught to respect all animals in the home. With birds, they must learn never to stick their hands in cages, nor should they reach for or handle a bird without permission and supervision. Screw-in locks on all openings, including feeding doors, are ideal for keeping birds in the cage and children's hands out.

When a new baby comes into a household with a parrot, it is often the bird that needs to learn respect. Gradually and safely introduce the parrot to the baby so the bird does not become jealous of this new creature who is getting more of your attention. Even with the demands of parenthood, remember that your bird still needs love, attention and playtime whenever possible.

Other Animals

Other animals can be a threat to birds, for obvious reasons. Dogs and cats are predators. Birds are prey. With proper introduction, dogs and cats can often live in harmony with birds, but the owner must be careful and watchful at all times. Birds and other animals should never be free to roam in the same area without supervision.

With some predators, the only way to find harmony with birds in the same house may be to keep them completely out of contact with one another at all times. Otherwise, the bird is a sure loser, and the emotional and financial loss will be great.

If you already have birds and wish to introduce a new bird, it is important to quarantine the new bird from the others for a minimum of three months (preferably at a location outside your home), and it's vital to visit an avian vet to be sure the new bird has no diseases which may be passed into your existing flock.

Are You a "Bird Person?"

There are many reasons why people pick a bird for a pet. Many think they are cute. (And they are!) Some may feel a parrot will make them seem distinguished or wealthy. Others may want a creature to show off to friends. But no matter the reason, birds are not just objects for show. Many birds are purchased for the wrong reasons and abandoned when the owner realizes they have gotten in over their head. Abandonment is extremely difficult for most animals, especially birds.

Be sure you know everything possible before deciding to purchase or adopt a bird, and realize that birds are extremely intelligent, social and sensitive creatures needing love and attention from their owners. If you are truly a "bird person," you will understand these needs, and understand that there is much more than money tied up in this decision. Frequently, there is also a strong emotional bond that will form between an owner and their companion bird.

Wing Tips: Safe at Home - Flight vs. Wing Clips

Naturally, birds love to fly. God gave them wings so they could do just that. And flight is important for exercise in birds. But, depending on a variety of circumstances, allowing domestic birds to fly free could also be a potential threat to their safety.

Smaller birds, like budgies, may be allowed to roam the house freely, but risk the danger of running into windows, mirrors and other items, potentially breaking bones or being killed upon impact.

Larger birds, such as many parrots, may need their wings clipped. Some medium sized parrots, like quakers, are great escape artists and can fly through open doors very quickly. Very large parrots, like macaws, have wingspans too large to fly well in smaller living spaces.

Some people feel that clipping a bird's wings is cruel, and it can be if used improperly. However, it may be in their best interest, and the interest of the owners, to do so depending on the circumstances. Losing a pet is very difficult, and since these are domestic birds, the chances of an escapee surviving in the wild are slim. It may be helpful to limit their flight than to risk injury, escape or death.

Be sure that birds with clipped wings still have ways to get some exercise without getting hurt, and always be sure there is enough room inside their cage to spread and flap their wings while fully extended.

Personally...
I've preferred to clip my more active bird's wings at particular times of year when it's warm and doors are most likely to be open. I tended to clip just a few primary flight feathers, so he still had some gliding ability. Our vet has pointed out that indoors this is one thing, but outdoors with a little wind one will be surprised how far a clipped bird can go, so this is something to keep in mind. When he was older, we ceased all clipping and encouraged flight, as exercise became even more crucial to keep his weight down.

Our birds lived in the basement, which minimized several issues, and we were always very cautious about doors when upstairs for any reason.

Birdy Baskets - Portable Perches

I'm still glad to make these if anyone would like one. Here's the lowdown...

Birdy Baskets are portable bird perches complete with toy holders, perfect for keeping your bird occupied and catching messes. Easy clean up makes them ideal for you and your companion.

Birdy Baskets are made with bird safety in mind. All baskets are unfinished, all fabrics are 100% cotton and all toys are bird safe. Baskets are created without the use of glue. Each basket can be specialized to suit your interests, and even to fit some bird’s names.

Small Birdy Basket: $20 (plus s&h) Recommended for budgie and cockatiel sized birds.

Medium Birdy Basket: $25 (plus s&h) Recommended for quaker and conure sized birds.

(Not recommended for especially destructive birds.)